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Luvanis

Private investment company

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Luvanis S.A. is a private investment company headquartered in Luxembourg and specialized in the incubation and revival of long-dormant luxury brands, also coined as “sleeping beauties”.

01History

In 2007, Guy de Lummen and his son Arnaud de Lummen reintroduced the first Vionnet clothing line since 1939, with Sophia Kokosalaki as creative director and Barneys New York as exclusive distributor. After the initial reboot, Arnaud and Guy de Lummen sold Vionnet to Italian entrepreneurs Matteo Marzotto, former CEO of Valentino, and Gianni Castiglioni, CEO and owner of Marni.

After this successful experience, the father-and-son duo founded Luvanis in 2009. In 2009, Luvanis acquired rights over the luxury trunk maker Moynat and drove Bernard Arnault (through his holdings Groupe Arnault) to buy Moynat. Moynat reopened in Paris in December 2011. Luvanis also relaunched the French trunk maker Au Départ and the American leather goods company Belber. Belber was then sold to the former owners of Alain Figaret and Delvaux. Au Départ was retributed to Asian investors and relaunched on rue Saint Honoré in 2019.

In the wake of a landmark exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art dedicated to the American fashion designer Charles James in 2014, Luvanis joined forces and trademarks rights with the designer’s heirs in June 2016, paving the way for the revival of the couture house. In September 2018, Luvanis revealed a new visual identity for Charles James, and put up for sale all the brands rights, which had been consolidated in the previous years.

In October 2014, Luvanis put up for sale the Paul Poiret house and its archives and sold it to the South Korean luxury group Shinsegae International in August 2015. The sale was officially confirmed in January 2018 and the brand relaunched after a 90-year hiatus.

Luvanis was the lead corporate sponsor of an exhibition on Mainbocher held at the Chicago History Museum between October 2016 and August 2017, which garnered more than 100,000 visitors. Luvanis announced plans to revive the couture house shortly after.

02Activities

Luvanis is a company focused on identifying and acquiring the rights to forgotten brand gems in order to reposition them and find partners or investors to fund their relaunch. The business model attempts to strike a balance between reasserting the brands’ heritage, and updating it for the present. Over the years, Luvanis has constituted a portfolio of long-dormant ‘sleeping beauty’ brands composed of former luxury houses in fashion, shoes, leather goods, jewelry, perfume, and champagne, which had enjoyed decades of success before closing doors. Brands selected will typically have received great recognition both in their prime (prizes at World's fairs, imperial or royal warrants) and later on, with for instance dedicated exhibitions (such as Paul Poiret or Charles James honored at the Metropolitan Museum of Art), or in some cases by becoming the object of a strong cult following.

03Brands

A list of brands that are currently or formerly part of Luvanis portfolio:

Dormant

Brand Description Creation Became Dormant Status
Rose Bertin French fashion house 1774 early 1800s To be relaunched as a fragrance line
Finnigans British trunk-maker 1830 1988
Maquet French leather and stationery maker 1841 1993
Aux Etats-Unis French trunk-maker 1845 1932
Grenoville French perfume house 1879 early 1970s
Callot Soeurs French couture house 1895 1937
Louise Chéruit French couture house 1906 1935
Augusta Bernard French couture house 1922 1934
Automobiles L. Rosengart French car manufacturer 1927 1955
Charles James British-American couture house 1928 1958
Mainbocher French-American couture house 1929 1971
Pierre Sterlé French jewellery house 1934 1976
David Evins American shoe maker 1947

Revived

Brand Description Creation Became Dormant Status
Doucet French fashion house 1816 1929 Revived in 2024 as a furniture line
Vever French jeweler 1821 1982 Revived in 2021 by Camille and Damien Vever
Au Départ French trunk maker 1834 1976 Revived in 2019 by new owner Adrian Cheng
Moynat French trunk maker 1849 1976 Revived in 2011 by new owner Bernard Arnault
Belber American trunk maker 1891 1970 Revived in 2016 by new owners
Paul Poiret French couture house 1903 1929 Revived in 2018 by new owner Shinsegae International
Vionnet French couture house 1912 1939 Revived in 2007, now owned by ChimHaeres
Maggy Rouff French fashion house 1929 1984 Revived in 2026
Herbert Levine American shoe maker 1948 1975 Revived in 2025
Watch videos about LuvanisExplainers and documentaries on YouTube (opens in a new tab)

Sources and credits

This article is adapted from the Wikipedia article Luvanis, written by its contributors and licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Fathomly has changed the layout, removed citation markers, navigation and maintenance notices, and adjusted punctuation. This adapted version is shared under the same license. For references, see the original article.

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