Christian Core
Italian rock climber
Christian Core (born 5 October 1974) is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an 8C+ (V16) boulder, Gioia, in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the Bouldering World Cup twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the Bouldering World Championship in 2003.
01Climbing career
Competition climbing
In 1999 Core stopped competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and started participating in the Bouldering World Cup, organized by UIAA in that year for the first time in history. He immediately won the Cup, and again in 2002. In 2003, he earned the title of World Champion in bouldering.
Bouldering
He has ascended several very hard boulders in Italy near Bobbio Pellice, Varazze, and Triora. In 2008, he climbed Gioia, the first-ever boulder graded 8C+ (V16) in history, and was for 8 years, the most difficult boulder in the world. In 2011, Adam Ondra repeated the ascent and confirmed the grade, however, in 2015, Core announced that a hold broke on Gioia, which he could only partially repair, and which slightly lowered the grade.
02Personal life
In 2009, he married the climber Stella Marchisio.
03Rankings
Climbing World Cup
| 1995 | 1996 | 1997 | 1998 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 10 | 11 | 9 | 17 |
| 1999 | 2000 | 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bouldering | 1 | 8 | 7 | 1 | 8 | 16 | 4 | 4 | 13 | 16 | 54 | 26 | 54 | 32 |
Climbing World Championships
| 1997 | 1999 | 2001 | 2003 | 2005 | 2007 | 2009 | 2011 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 7 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Bouldering | - | - | 3 | 1 | 18 | 10 | 10 | 33 |
Climbing European Championships
| 1998 | 2000 | 2002 | 2004 | 2007 | 2008 | 2010 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 10 | - | - | - | - | - | - |
| Bouldering | - | - | 1 | - | 16 | 10 | 7 |
04Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Bouldering
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1999 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2000 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2001 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2002 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2003 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2004 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2005 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2006 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2010 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 3 | 6 | 4 | 13 |
05Rock climbing
Redpointed routes
Core redpointed 8c (5.14b) and onsighted 8a (5.13b) routes.
Boulder problems
Core redpointed 8C+ (V16) and flashed 8A (V11) boulder problems.
8C+/V16:
- Gioia, Varazze (ITA), 2008, First ascent. Adam Ondra repeated it on 6 December 2011 and confirmed the 8C+ grade. Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival
8C/V15:
- Kimera, Rifugio Barbara (Bobbio Pellice, ITA), 2006, First ascent
8B+/V14:
- Toky, Val Ellero (ITA), 2009, First ascent
- New Base Line, Magic Wood (CHE), 2006
- Beautiful mind, Albarracin (ESP), 2006, First ascent
- Ajna, Varazze (ITA), 2004, First ascent
- Toguro, Varazze (ITA), 2003, First ascent
- Dreamtime, Cresciano (CHE), 2003, Fifth ascent (first ascent by Fred Nicole)
- Taklimakam plus, Varazze (ITA), 2002, First ascent
- Shadowfax, Chironico (CHE), 2002, Third ascent (first ascent by Dave Graham)
06Film
- i Core, my climbing family, 2012, Regia di Angelo Poli, 45'
07Bibliografia
- Andrea Gennari Daneri, Christian Core (2000). Pareti e Montagne edizioni (ed.). Train!.
Sources and credits
This article is adapted from the Wikipedia article “Christian Core”, written by its contributors and licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0. Fathomly has changed the layout, removed citation markers, navigation and maintenance notices, and adjusted punctuation. This adapted version is shared under the same license. For references, see the original article.
Images, from Wikimedia Commons:
- Christian Core on Gioia.jpg by Paolo.dL, CC BY-SA 4.0
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